She has expanded the bakery to three retail locations in Paris and one in London, as well as creating an e-commerce business so the most fervent fans can have Poilâne breads overnighted (for a price), as Ina Garten, Martha Stewart and a range of restaurants from Europe to L.A. often do. Danke für deinen Einblick ins Buch. Its flavor was not pronounced but was the simple expression of high heat and good ingredients, exquisite butter above all. That she is both practical and imminently capable and yet still awed by the mysterious ways of bread—of wheat and yeast and heat—means she might discuss the science of milling grains one moment and, the next, the visual poetry of the letter “P” as it is written in the flour that tops every loaf. She once told me, with still-vivid frustration, of having to wait for her hands to grow large enough to work the dough; but there was little else she wasn’t doing by age ten. The croissants and apple pastries are indulgent and fabulous. Poilâne has a large bakery complex in a suburb of Paris, Bièvres, which began operation in 1983. our loaf is easily eatable for 5 days and delicious toasted the last 2 days!) After watching Barefoot in Paris again on my TiVo, I decided to order a loaf of Poilane bread to surprise some friends at a gathering on Wednesday night. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement (updated as of 1/1/21) and Privacy Policy and Cookie Statement (updated as of 1/1/21) and Your California Privacy Rights. I recently visited Paris with my friend and she recommended us to get a lovely pastry from Poilane. The edges were just short of burned, and that tiny hint of bitterness seemed only to make the cookie sweeter. She was proper, formal and, perhaps to an American sensibility, even officious, but there was a great well of kindness behind her brisk, constant greetings of “Monsieur, Madame, Mademoiselle,” and the quickness with which she counted out centimes and francs with the unerring exactitude of a calculator. The cookie—called, with perfect French irony, punition—yielded upon being bitten, but not without putting up a little fight, a little resistance, giving it more character than shortbread, say, or butter or sugar cookies. It began as a humble bakery opened in 1932 on a sleepy corner of Paris’ romantic Saint-Germain-des-Prés—when the Left Bank was the Left Bank! I wanted to profess my love for my bread and share just how special it is and how many different ways bread can be used in cooking. It is most well known for their nearly 4lb “miche Poilâne®” [4] – a rustic, country style bread introduced to the bakery by Apollonia Poilâne's grandfather, bakery founder Pierre Léon Poilâne. Vogue may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers. MasterClass is $15/month (billed annually) As a third-generation baker and CEO of the renowned Parisian bakery Poilâne, Apollonia Poilâne keeps time-honored traditions alive with every loaf. Aside from saving maybe a bit of pocket change, I’m not sure why anyone would choose the white bread, when they could be eating a warm ham … Dieses Brot mit so viel Geschmack benötigt keinen Belag, es schmeckt auch pur einfach köstlich. How did you make it feel special?Apart from my heart and soul?! In the morning, I’d eat slices of the miche toasted with a thick lathering of butter from Fromagerie Barthelemy. Poilâne bread is amazingly dense and substantial, and the cool, slightly salted layer of rich butter would take a moment before melting into the toast. In fact, over time, I have come to recognize each of my bakers’ signatures. Poilâne is the legendary, best-in-the-world loaf of bread or 'miche' as per the French word for 'loaf'. The Best Bakery in Paris Will Bring Its Famous Bread to America The Best Bakery in Paris Will Bring Its Famous Bread to America. From my experience as an apprentice, I would suggest to not be afraid of the stickiness of the dough, and thus not adding too much flour to facilitate the work. For real. Poilâne Bakery - arguably the best bakery in Paris for classic loaves bread (not baguette), croissants and apple tarts. In still other dishes, she explores the … It was a few days before the start of the school year; I was an American girl about to enter the Ecole Bilingue, and I was twitchy with nerves and the thoughts of all the things I didn’t know and had never tasted. The latest fashion news, beauty coverage, celebrity style, fashion week updates, culture reviews, and videos on Country of Origin. APOLLONIA POILANE: Growing up, I spent most of my Wednesdays and Saturdays in the bakehouse.When I saw the wood-fired oven burning, I took it for granted that this was the way we heat up an oven. UK. The yeasty, heady smell of toasted sourdough and wheat seemed then, and still, to be rooted in terroir, with much the same depth as you might expect from a venerable Bordeaux. Poilâne bread factory. Informations générales Poilane® est une marque déposée, propriété de la société Poilane® dont le siège est au 8 Rue du cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris, France Many now know the story of Lionel and Irena Poilâne’s sudden and tragic death in a helicopter crash in 2002, when their daughter, Apollonia, was only eighteen. Pierre Poilâne eröffnete 1932 in der Pariser Rue du Cherche Midi eine kleine Backstube. On my last visit to Paris in October, Apollonia gave me a tiny wry smile when I asked the temperature of the bread oven. I was ten, and my family had just moved down the street from the bakery. Mit Apollonia Poilâne ist mittlerweile die dritte Generation der Familie im Tagesgeschäft. Tell me about the process of creating this book. It’s country bread not baguettes so beware. My hope is that readers will complete my recipes and add their own sticky notes or share their own versions with their friends. When I started seeing the way we work through our sourdough, I thought that every bread … Nearly every day and, most often, several times a day, I’d walk by the shop, my dog, Romeo, in tow and stop for punitions or for a little apple tart or a brioche. To revist this article, visit My Profile, then View saved stories. And countless culinary amateurs are prone to speak of their first taste of Poilâne’s miche—the bakery’s now-iconic, generously-sized round signature loaf—in dreamy, ecstatic tones normally reserved for the most pleasurable of nocturnal murmurings. Without hesitation, she removed the paper a few short seconds later. Poilane Paris - Cherche-Midi Bakery, Paris: See 169 unbiased reviews of Poilane Paris - Cherche-Midi Bakery, rated 4.5 of 5 on Tripadvisor and ranked #2,645 of 18,124 restaurants in Paris. Even after waiting for another 5 minutes with no service, I decided to leave such a rude place. What is something about this book that might surprise people?Just how many things you can do with a piece of bread… My father’s bread sandwich recipe is dear to me because it reflects his passion but also his humor of using bread as a filling! Brot aus ihrer eigenen Bäckerei in Paris, das sie sich jede Woche per Kurierdienst kommen ließ. When apprentice comes to Poilane, we train them for nine months. Now, you don’t even need to pay those hefty courier fees to get your Parisian bread fix: you can make it yourself. The bread contains both whole wheat and white flours, has just the right level of saltiness, and a beautiful golden brown crust. And it takes three days to make. It was browned at the edges and just starting to crimple inwards. Today, Poilâne is helmed by Pierre’s granddaughter Apollonia, who inherited her family’s bread empire at the age of 18 after her parents died in a tragic helicopter accident in 2002. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Condé Nast. The huge loaf (4 pounds!) eponymous and exceptionally good cookbook. Beyond bread, Apollonia includes recipes for pastries such as the bakery’s exquisite but unfussy tarts and butter cookies. We use our hands, which are some of the most sophisticated tools. How long did it take you to create this book?The idea for this book started with a loaf of bread I kept fresh for over 10 days (albeit it was a little drier on the last days). To be fair, those nine pages include three pages of actual instructions (“Preheat the oven to 475°F”); three pages of tips (“I strongly suggest mixing your sourdough by hand to literally get a feel for it from start to finish”); and a very French three pages about the philosophy and poetry of sourdough (“The crackling sounds the loaves make as they cool are a faint but beautiful melody”). But in the meantime, an amuse-bouche, in the form of a Q&A with Madame Poilâne herself. My first visit to Poilâne did not turn me into a baker, but its impact upon my life was no less transformative. If you’re a bread lover, a Francophile, or both, then you’ve heard of Poilâne. In recipes that use bread as an ingredient, she shows how to make the most from a loaf, from crust to crumb. We are constantly looking for the best ingredients and the best production techniques. I hope readers will open the book and embark on their own journey. Paris has no shortage of bakeries of all sorts, from plain breads to fine pastries but Poilane stands above them all (or at least at the top of a short list). Since each baker has their own writing style, each baker’s P has a uniqueness to it. And at the heart of hearts, what we teach them is how to attune their five senses to their environment, to the ingredients, to the dough they're baking that day. Pain Poilâne. Mai 2020 um 12:50. Kaum zu glauben, welches Aroma die Mikroorganismen produzieren können! First, at-home versions of Poilâne recipes. General Information Poilane is a registered trademark, property of the Poilâne Company located at 8 rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris, France? Poilane is one of the best bakeries in Paris and this is their feted peasant loaf (theirs is 2 kg in size and is in the form of a cluster of grapes). The wood-burning oven in the basement is still used, just as it was in 1932 when Pierre Poilâne opened the bakery. If we were having cheese, we’d add a Poilâne walnut loaf to the mix, but that was about as far off-course as we’d deviate. The worldwide demand for Poilâne bread is met in a facility located in Bièvres which was built in the 1980s. Poilâne has six bakehouses in Paris, London, and Antwerp. Most of my recipes can be treated as building blocks for other creative uses, sweet or savory. Gegen den damaligen Zeitgeist besann er sich auf dunkle traditionelle Brote, die er - wie früher - in mit Holz befeuerten Steinbacköfen buck. All rights reserved. Poilane bread contains ‘selenium’ a component of antioxidants! Whereas I generally suggest that my patrons eat our loaves within 3 to 5 days, I realized (once more) just how beautiful and powerful our wheat sourdough loaf is. There, Pierre Poilâne created beautiful breads using traditional techniques, selling sourdough boules to impoverished artists in exchange for paintings of bread. I'd brought back plenty of chocolate to share, but really wanted my pals to experience some of the fabulous bread we had in Paris. But few know that she had been learning the ins and outs of her father’s (and, before him, her grandfather’s) bakery from an early age. The book also provides a history and insight into what really goes on behind the scenes at Poilâne. Where did the signature “P” on top of your famous sourdough loaves come from?Around the turn of the millennium, my father decided to return to an old tradition of signing loaves with the owner’s name to make our breads distinctive in a communal oven. “Prenez-un,” she offered. In a kind of trance, I found myself at the register, where a middle-aged woman was looking at me from behind the counter. Later this fall, Apollonia Poilâne will release her debut cookbook, Poilâne: The Secrets of the World-Famous Bread Bakery (Rux Martin Books/Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, $40). We love our local Poilane in the Marais when we stay in a flat in the neighborhood. That day, Madame nodded to a long basket of plain cookies that were slightly and unevenly brown at the edges. Recipes include the greatest hits, like the sourdoughs and the croissants sold in Poilâne stores every day, but also more creative uses for leftover bread like bread crumb tabbouleh or bread granola. 8, rue du Cherche-Midi was and remains the literal hearth of Poilâne. On my last visit to Paris in October, Apollonia gave me a tiny wry smile when I asked the temperature of the bread oven. We have very little measures in the bakery. “Poilâne: The Secrets of the World-Famous Bread Bakery” came out in October and is the first book in English from Poilâne, the granddaughter of … I followed my father down the rue du Cherche-Midi—so named, he had just been telling me, because of the singular beauty of afternoon sunlight on the gentle curve of its trajectory through the 6th arrondissement—and into a bakery, where I was immediately struck by an enveloping, heady smell that I could not have named then, but which I later came to understand was a magic eau de vie of butter, sourdough, cooked apples, toasted walnuts, and the faint after-aroma of slightly burnt sugar and browned butter. How many recipes already existed, and how many did you have to create? Many cafés in Paris offers two versions of the croque-monsieur, one made on standard white bread, the other, with pain Poilâne. Beautiful institution w many locations in Paris but what’s truly mind blowing are the tartes aux pommes- Apple Tarts. Lionel Poilâne called this search and combination of the best of old techniques with the best of new techniques, “Retro-Innovation.” Bread is made of four ingredients: water, And I’d argue that the famed Parisian bakery Poilâne has been the starter of sorts for nearly every artisan bread baker I know in the world—nourishing and inspiring them. POILÂNE BAKERY At Poilâne, we are passionate about bread. Ich habe ein Brot dieser Art vor eineinhalb Jahren das letzte Mal gebacken, Grund genug es zu wiederholen. It’s worth noting that this isn’t any kind of simplified guide—despite having just four ingredients plus yeast, the recipe for Poilâne’s world-famous sourdough is precisely nine pages long. For exact directions, you’ll have to pick up a copy when the book comes out on October 29th. There, Pierre Poilâne created beautiful breads … As Alice Waters writes in her introduction to Apollonia Poilâne’s new eponymous and exceptionally good cookbook, legendary American bakers, such as Acme founder Steve Sullivan, decided, upon their first nibble of a Poilâne crumb, to devote their lives to the art of breadmaking. It was unlike anything I’d known, and yet I recognized in it something timeless, something profoundly French that had existed long before us and would live, just so, long after us. Yes, part science, part art. Beginning life cradled in a crib made from a bread basket, Poilâne was poised to take over Poilâne, her famed family bakery in Paris, founded by her grandfather in 1932. Die Bäckerei Poilâne in Paris backt so ein slow-bread: Pain Poilâne. Restaurants in der Nähe von Boulangerie Poilane: (0.00 km) Comptoir Poilane (0.00 km) Poilane Paris - Cherche-Midi Bakery (0.15 km) Restaurant Le Saint-Germain - Hotel Lutetia (0.12 km) Café Cassette (0.12 km) Le Récamier; Sehen Sie sich alle Restaurants in der Nähe von Boulangerie Poilane auf Tripadvisor an. © 2021 Condé Nast. Photo: Courtesy of Philippe Vaurés Santamaria. Second, what to do with bread when it is the freshest and driest. What did you include in the book, to make sure it wasn’t “just another cookbook”? Now she’s sharing the joy of making bread from scratch with her recipes and hands-on demonstrations. And third, recipes I consider "bread-cooking" that explain how to use bread as an ingredient. Instead of answering, she took a leaf of paper and pushed it a little way into the oven. Ich verstehe ja, dass man nicht die letzten Geschäftsgeheimnisse ausplaudert, ein bisschen mehr Rezepttreue zum Original wäre aber wünschenswert gewesen, wenn man schon so ein Werk veröffentlicht. How did you select which recipes to include in the book?There are three drivers to the book’s recipes. The signature loaf that started in 1932 in Paris is made of 4 ingredients only : ... Poilâne bread keeps longer than any other bread (ex. I would come to know her very Parisian mix of precision and warmth. Ad Choices. A second Paris bakery on boulevard de Grenelle is located in the 15th arrondissement. What is the biggest mistake that home bakers make when creating bread?It is hard to suggest a common mistake because home bakers usually create a loaf with their love and soul. This epitome of artisan traditional loaf, made all by hand, was developed by Pierre and then his son Lionel … And so, I tried one. And, now thankfully, a bit of both in Poilâne, the cookbook. I reworked recipes I made at home, and also imagined new ones as I made more discoveries. It is a bakery only, with no shop: no products are sold directly to consumers out of here. Following the accidental death of her parents in 2002, she assumed the title of CEO at the tender age of 18, and ran the international bakery and business for four years from her Harvard University dorm room. Whilst we waited to be served, I was shocked to get the paper bag (with no pastry inside) that I was holding snatched out of my hand and was reprimanded in front of everyone in the store. Incidentally, the word for bread in French [“pain”] also starts with a P. It has been our hand carved signature ever since. APOLLONIA POILANE, the 35-year-old CEO of Poilâne, began life cradled in a crib made from a bread basket. I have met incredible men and women that have inspired me and encouraged me in my desire to feed the world, one loaf at a time. She has expanded the business internationally, and Poilâne now ships to more than 5,000 loaves to forty countries. In the hands of Lionel Poilane it was a masterpiece. Our columnist shares her lifelong love of Poilâne’s delicious sourdough bread and writes about its new cookbook. 32 thoughts on “ Rezension | Poilâne: The Secrets of the World-Famous Bread Bakery ” Petra aka Cascabel 11. How has Poilˆane the company grown and changed since you took over?Whether it is our breads, biscuits or “pâtisseries boulangères” or our services, since 2002, Poilâne has embarked on a journey, exploring grains and fermentation. $ It began as a humble bakery opened in 1932 on a sleepy corner of Paris’ romantic Saint-Germain-des-Prés—when the Left Bank was the Left Bank! Since then, Apollonia, a Harvard graduate, has successfully brought Poilâne into the 21st century. Its breads are the perfect combination of chewy and crisp and one almost feels virtuous eating carbs. We've created new products—a 100% corn bread, a spoon-shaped biscuit, a range of cakes—new services as technology evolves, and we have also opened new venues, two bakeries in Paris and a café in London. Bread bakers spend a lot of time talking about the health of their so-called mother, the starter that is the base of every great sourdough loaf. The Poilâne bakery is reputed to be one of the world's best bakeries specializing in sourdough breads baked in wood-fired ovens and is considered Paris's most famous bakery. “When the paper behaves just so, we know the oven is ready,” she explained. And always for the loaf of bread that was my family’s daily staple, the heart of our breakfast, lunch and my afterschool snack. Can making a simple sugar cookie be a work of art? The best new culture, style, and beauty stories from Vogue, delivered to you daily. The Bièvres bakery produces around 15,000 loaves per day in 24 wood-burning ovens which are exact replicas of the ovens used at the Paris … Handmade and baked in our wood-fired oven . It adds the final touch to our handmade method. Pain Poilâne is produced in the Latin Quarter of Paris where it is sold at the original boulangerie on rue du Cherche-Midi. Tragedy put her at the helm decades earlier than anyone would have wished, but she was well prepared, and the bakery has thrived under her watchful, active care. How have you personally grown and changed since running Poilˆane?Poilâne has fed my body and soul.